An Australian in Italy
Well it seems absolutely surreal and extraordinary to get to Italy. After a few years of blogging, podcasting, reading and researching about the Belle Paese I have returned. It would be reasonable to say that I have thought about Italy most days over this time and even though a part of me has wondered why, I just figured if it made me happy and there is nothing wrong with that.
Always the Italian way has inspired me. There is no doubt it has played a pivotal role in who I am and the things I gravitate toward. Such as the books I might read, the recipes I like to cook, the memoirs and the blogs that I read. For many years I have explored books on women who live in Italy wondering what it was that lured them in that direction. Even if they were written in the 1800s, 1900s or 2000s, I have been intensely curious.
Creating a podcast a few years back, quite naively I must say, has played a role and given me a drive I have often been surprised by. Since the advent of the problems with Covid and travel, certainly I have wondered why I would continue, why I would bother. Yet, I haven’t been able to stop myself, like I was on a train and there was no getting off.
Don’t worry most people in my life have asked me why, and at times I think judged me for it. But when something holds a magnetic pull, then why get in the way. I said to my husband Richard on a text earlier today while sipping my cappuccino at the Hotel breakfast…… I said in the past few days I have felt that I have had a lot of luck, that things have worked out, almost against the odds, honestly.
I say that because for the next little while, the Italy Green Pass is a necessary requirement to travel on trains and to visit museums. And before I left I thought I must be insane to try to travel when this is not actually simple for an Australian. My American friend flashed a white card last night at dinner and that was accepted with three dates on it. The American visitors practically never stopped traveling over the past few years. But most Australians haven’t returned to Italy unless for work, so I knew I was in virgin territory. The Italians don’t know what to make of it if you don’t show a green pass, and get the thing scanned.
In fact I nearly cancelled the trip, changed the dates since the green pass will be fazed out over the next few months. It almost took me out, the worry of it. Would it work out? Would I be able to get a Green Pass? I couldn’t stop thinking about it. Well yes, I can and I did and I have needed it too. (Requires a covid test, fifteen Euros, and twenty minutes of your time at the chemist)
After telling Richard about this feeling of luck (and I normally would never say that, as I can be a little superstitious. I didn’t tell any one I was going until after arriving, a true sign). I walked into a cafe on the corner of my street earlier today. I asked the man at the counter if he had Wifi, as the Hotel wasn’t all that reliable. He said yes, and helped me set it up on my phone. It was a terribly long password!
I ordered a cappuccino and told him I had to book a train and an Albergo (hotel). He was more than obliging and yelled out to the Barista to make a ‘cupuccho’. The cafe was Neapolitan in style. I was getting the coins from my wallet and the man who was leaving and paying for his caffe, actually paid for mine.
I got such a surprise, and thanked him, saying ‘grazie mille” a number of times with my hand over my heart (in Italy it is all about the gesture after all). He smiled, saying “Prego” in return, you are welcome. And waved me goodbye. I called Buongornata, to have a wonderful day.
I know the meaning of Cafe Sospesso. I have talked about it in my earlier podcasts on armchair travel…. But this is more than that, it is the conviviality and the joy of the Italian way. The cafe filled with everyone coming in for their morning ‘caffe’. People came and went, ate Cornetto, sipped espresso. I drank my cappuccino smiling. I wrote in my travel journal and I found myself a little guest house in the Cannaregio district of Venice (thank you Emiko Davies for the suggestion)
I sat there sending messages to my kids and my husband. I booked the train ticket for two hours time from Milano Centrale to Venezia, Santa Lucia Station. I realised that this was actually happening. I was making it happen regardless of the fears and the uncertainty’s, that Italy was indeed smiling on me. Hand on my heart, it feels good to be here.
Sunday 27th March, 2022
13.11
21 degrees
12.05 train from Milano Centrale to Santa Lucia Station, Venice